A journey on waves, a wild romp of a life around the sun some 70+ years, is chronicled in a book I’m writing, Surfing into Sixty. In the writing, I discovered that the book breaks organically into two parts. The first, during the 1960s and 70s when I learned to surf and developed skills, and … Continue reading It starts and ends on a wave ….
Gads : How to describe the weather to someone who’s out shoveling snow? The Thanksgiving holiday weekend was simply – well, not winter! Temps in the 70s and 80s led everyone to the beach. It might as well have been a summer day, except the water temps were down low 60s. Wave were small – … Continue reading Southern California Shines
While the Trestles Pro contest drew spectators and filled parking lots, SANO pushed nice uncrowded waves with early glassy seas and fun waist to chest high faces. Lots of women in the water the last three days : and that’s GREAT! More than I’ve seen in a while, and as expected – gracious about sharing … Continue reading Sano and Days of Fun Surf
Sleep broken… darn shoulders from too much paddling over the last week. An old weight lifting injury exacerbated by having too much fun I suppose. What’s a gal to do? Take some aspirin, take it easy for a couple of days .. and paddle back out. I get a kick of listening to the silver … Continue reading Whose Shoulders Are These?
Surfing Into Sixty 