It starts and ends on a wave ….
A journey on waves, a wild romp of a life around the sun some 70+ years, is chronicled in a book I’m writing, Surfing into Sixty. In the writing, I discovered that the book breaks organically into two parts. The first, during the 1960s and 70s when I learned to surf and developed skills, and … Continue reading It starts and ends on a wave ….
Surfing Into Sixty 