A journey on waves, a wild romp of a life around the sun some 70+ years, is chronicled in a book I’m writing, Surfing into Sixty.
In the writing, I discovered that the book breaks organically into two parts. The first, during the 1960s and 70s when I learned to surf and developed skills, and the second, as I turned 60. A 40-year hiatus blocks the story into two parts, as college, then marriage, kids, divorce and work kept me out of the water. A life-break (I don’t know what else to call everything imploding) just before my 60th birthday, sent me back into the ocean to find myself. A self, now found, that cannot be dissuaded from paddling out and catching a few.
I hope this website offers a peak at my story, and that when complete, Surfing into Sixty will offer a guidebook into never giving up on yourself or your dreams no matter your age.