Sleep broken… darn shoulders from too much paddling over the last week. An old weight lifting injury exacerbated by having too much fun I suppose. What’s a gal to do? Take some aspirin, take it easy for a couple of days .. and paddle back out.
I get a kick of listening to the silver haired brigade at San Onofre share stories of aches and pains while waiting for waves. Shoulder surgeries, back issues. Hey, none of us 20 or 30 anymore, but the good news, none of really cares. At least while we are surfing. What matters is the magic in the moment – the amazing joy of continued communion with the sea and her power.
But these shoulders will have to be dealt with – like it or not.
Surfing Into Sixty 